2001 Mustang Clutch set up information

[MY-S281]

Well after browsing around endlessly for Clutch kits and potentially a lightweight Flywheel for the Saleen I have come to discover there is a lot of conflicting information out there regarding the drive train on the 2001 SOHC Mustang GT 4.6 Motor. . From what I have been able to determine is that I have a T-45 with a 10.5 clutch and a 6 bolt crank, or at least that what I believe I have... :-)'

I guess there was a change in the Transmissions that were used in 2001 along with differences in the size of the clutch and flywheel set up used, there is 10.5 and 11" set up, there also appears to be differences in the crankshafts that were used in 2001.. It appears both 6 and 8 bolt cranks that were used in 2001 and like I said there is a lot of conflicting info out there..

Some sources say that the you can tell by the 8th digit in the VIN which motor you have and that doesn't appear to be actually true, from what I have seen this digit only represent the # of cylinders but some say the X is for the romeo motor and if you have a W is for the Windsor.. then you get into the 6 and 8 bolt flywheel differences.. I would hate to purchase the parts for a clutch job and find out after the tranny is out I have a 6 bolt instead of a 8 bolt or vice versa. I am sure my mechanic wouldn't be too pleased either if I showed up with the wrong parts..!! From what I have read the most definitive way you can tell what block you have buy counting the bolts on the valve covers.. 11 for Romeo ='s 6 bolt crank and 13 & 14 for the Windsor that has the 8 bolt crank.... Just wanted to toss this info out there while looking for opinions and suggestions on a new clutch set up on my Saleen, to see if anyone else has any other related information on how to determine what in a particular 2001 model..

Regarding suggestions and opinions on what would be best suited for a replacement ,I dont need anything radical just something that going to hold up , Also not sure the investment in a an aluminum flywheel will make a lot of sense considering how I use the car,., power wise I am currently making 385 rwhp/ 394 rwtq .

[masscobra03]

From what I understand, Barry, is that the early 01's came with the T45 and the late run's came with the 3650. Either way I would go with a steel flywheel for better durability and grabbing power or an aluminum flywheel for less inertia and weight and easier starts off the line. Clutch wise, I like the Spec's. For your setup I would run Spec Stg 2+. The + gives you low pedal effort.

[MY-S281]

From what I understand, Barry, is that the early 01's came with the T45 and the late run's came with the 3650. Either way I would go with a steel flywheel for better durability and grabbing power or an aluminum flywheel for less inertia and weight and easier starts off the line. Clutch wise, I like the Spec's. For your setup I would run Spec Stg 2+. The + gives you low pedal effort.

Hey James,
My MFG date is 01/01 and my tranny code on the door jam represents the T45.. My biggest thing now is deciding to just have the current Flywheel resurfaced or replace.. I was looking at the spec clutches last night !!

[LILBLKSNAKE]

Resurface is like 60.00, a Ford flywheel can be had for as little as 100.00 if you keep an eye out
I put a Spec Stage 2+ in Kevin's 2000 GT Hellion Turbo car before he sold it and I would highly recommend it.

Who are you having do the work?
Dan at Southern NH Undercar will be helping me do mine before the long tubes on the COBRA. He said do the clutch now or regret it with Long tubes.

[ToplessPony94]

Barry, as stated below, the aluminum flywheel will spin up faster. I went with an aluminum flywheel (Fidanza), aluminum driveshaft (FRPP) and a clutch with aluminum housing and PP (MacLeod). I don't regret it for a moment. All of those parts are first class. The weight savings and lower inertia in the drive train make a significant difference.

As far as bearings are concerned, FRPP and MacLeod are great, most others are junk.

Good luck on your project whatever you decide.

[TorchRedSVT]

I put a Spec stage 2 in my old GT....was a great clutch, just chattered a bit. From waht I have read, spec with it's new + clutches has vastly improved.

If i was in your shoes, I'd probably go the new flywheel route....your car has a bunch of miles and some newly found power. I woudl gravitate towards aluminum as long as you don't plan to make a ton more power.

If i was you, I'd call Ford directly and ask for some help.....it's 2012 and I find it HIGHLY unlikely the only way to tell what your car has for a transmission/clutch set up is to take it apart.

[JR@Dez]

11 for Romeo ='s 6 bolt crank and 13 & 14 for the Windsor that has the 8 bolt crank

This is correct. Just count the valve cover bolts and that's what you've got. 11 bolts and a T45: 6 bolt. 11 bolts and a T3650: 6 bolts. 13 bolts and a T45: 8 bolts.

[Mustang5L5]

The info is on the door tag. A lot of good info is here if you know how to decode it (Interior trim, stereo model, body type, spring codes, trans type, etc) The VIN only has a digit for the engine.

There's a box for TRAN (or TR)

K = T-3650 w/ 11" clutch
6 = T-45 w/10.5" Clutch

5 would be a T-5 with 10.5" but that's for V6 only.


That's the first digit of the code under the TR column. The rest are spring codes which you can ignore. You just want the first letter/number


I recommend new flywheel and not a resurface. I paid $60 to resurface a 5.0 flywheel only to strip out a clutch bolt hole during the install. A new Flywheel cost me $99.

[MY-S281]

The info is on the door tag. A lot of good info is here if you know how to decode it (Interior trim, stereo model, body type, spring codes, trans type, etc) The VIN only has a digit for the engine.

There's a box for TRAN (or TR)

K = T-3650 w/ 11" clutch
6 = T-45 w/10.5" Clutch

5 would be a T-5 with 10.5" but that's for V6 only.


That's the first digit of the code under the TR column. The rest are spring codes which you can ignore. You just want the first letter/number


I recommend new flywheel and not a resurface. I paid $60 to resurface a 5.0 flywheel only to strip out a clutch bolt hole during the install. A new Flywheel cost me $99.

Well between confirming I have the Romeo Motor by the 11 Valve cover bolts and confirming the TR code is a "6" I think it pretty much ensures I have the T45 10 1/2" 6 BOLT CRANK SET UP..

Now I just need to select the setup I want to go with accordingly.. I agree on replacing the Flywheel after all the car has 140K and I was told the clutch was replaced back when it had about 75K so I imagine they probably resurfaced it then so I would think replacing it would be the wise thing to do.. Now I have looked at endless Clutch kits and read about as much as I want to read on
the subject and again there are so many opinions out there both good and bad for just about any setup.. Not looking to brake the bank so I may just replace the flywheel with a stock flywheel, seen stock 6 bolt one's for about $ 130ish .. 8 Bolts are cheaper for some reason !! Just tossing around what to go with at this point.. I guess if I could find the complete set up with an Aluminum Flywheel for a reasonable price 550-600ish I would consider the Aluminum upgrade.. Question is if I go with a SPEC clutch should it be mated with a SPEC Aluminum Flywheel or would it be ok to go with a different Aluminum Flywheel.. I might do better on overall pricing .. I do understand I need to make sure the FW is SFI approved either way..

[masscobra03]

I went with Spec Flywheel and Clutch and had them balanced together by Spec when I did mine.