When I was young and dumb I yanked the ac out thinking that 30 pounds would make me run 10's
Now I'm old and slow and want ice cold ac. I've spent a pretty penny on all NEW ford oem components, and figure I had to do it right.
Since I know a bit about ac repair I took the certification test and passed. So now I could buy this. It's got 5 more buddies :)
The oem nippondenso compressor just doesn't work well with r134a...the design is not efficient. Thats why I'm going with original r-12. It's just much better for many technical reasons. Damn Montreal Protocol ruined a good thing.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 08-03-2011 at 09:37 PM.
*Michael*
A few years back, I rebuilt an '86 Toyota 4Runner A/C with r134.
I am pretty sure it was a Nippondenso.
It ran cold and ran very well.
IMO any difference in efficiency was not noticeable.
2006 Vista Blue GT Deluxe,Manual,64W Wheels,Spoiler Delete,IUP- Produced Date-03/29/06
MODS: JLT CAI,Sequential tail lights & pony corral,Hella 500 Driving lights,
GMS strut brace and A-arm brace.
2006 Performance White GT Premium with Saleen S/C-- MODS:Too many to put here
Both Custom SCT Dyno Tuned by Pete.
Nice choice going with the R12. Its definitely colder and looks better under the hood. Where are the pics of the finished product. R134 works ok for some cars but not all. Usually a 5-10 degree difference.
Stan
86 Mercury Capri ASCMclaren coupe#20 of 114. 5.0, 5 speed, A/C, P/W, and pop up sunroof.
Formerly known as: 85silverttopgt
Nice score! I haven't seen those cans in a looongggg time!! If I remember correctly, there was a day when you used to buy the charging kit and refrigerant at your local auto parts store.
Comfort or horsepower. Horsepower used to always win out, but so true...as us long standing Mustang Enthusiasts become more seasoned, we sway back towards the comfort.
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I'm still young n dumb enough to be running the AC deleted... Now the choice is to drive another vehicle when those high temps come along. the only nice thing about the r134 is that it IS available to recharge everywhere. I didn't even know you could get the old stuff in a new can; helped a buddy of mine re-claim some out of a junk yard a few years ago. What a pain in the @ss. Way to go on the fresh components!
'89 LX Hatch, Saleen Wing, Balanced 306 with some goodies, Edelbrock RPM Heads and Intake, 3.73's, other stuff
Originally Posted by chasetopher
It's not brand new technically. Can is new...but it is old stock from the 90's...just stored well.
My daily driver has nice ice cold a/c, but there are days I want to drove the Mustang and it's just too humid. Driving a black mustang with black leather gets hot...especially with the famous "trans tunnel heat" just heating the interior up. Having a nice cold breeze out of the vents will make those days more enjoyable and avoid peeling my shirt off the leather when done.
I went with the r-12 for several technical reasons. #1 being the nippondenso compressor is a low volume unit that doesn't push the r-134a properly to achieve the higher pressure on the high side needed. Thats why a lot of the new 134a retrofit kits are new Sanden units. Also, the condenser blows with r-134a and swapping to an sn95 style condenser (96-98 cobra the best) is preferred. Since i prefer the OeM look, i want to run the factory style compressor. Also, r-134a oils are nasty. They are hydroscopic so any moisture that gets in the system turns into a corrosive acid that can kill the system. A leak with r-12 (using mineral oil) will just leak. Replace the o ring, sucks a vacuum and refill and you are good to go. R-134a can be a bit trickier. And yes, r-12 is a more efficient refrigerant.....but it does have that whole downside about depleting the ozone...which technically was never proven, only "suspected"
R-134a is on it's way out anyway. Notice the price of it climbing lately? Used to be $3-5 a can....now it's $14-18 a can. Worldwide demand is up, but it's going to be phased out. Europe has already mandated the change, and the US will switch to the new HFO-1234yf in 2017, but some manufacturers are going now. R-134a will then be taxed heavily to phase it out....so if you guys have some leaky r-134a cars, you might want to stockpile some 134. I have about 10 cans
No pics of the install yet. Gptta pull my dash and install my new evaporator. Once I get that in, I'll put everything else on, add my oil, do a 250psi nitrogen leak test, pull a vac to 29.90inHg and then fill Er up!
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 08-06-2011 at 10:38 PM.
*Michael*
I'm so glad I work at a Ford dealer and don't to have be bothered with this
Bothered by what? This is a hobby isn't it? I enjoy these sorts of projects.
*Michael*
glad you mentioned the new yf stuff, its funny its orderless, colorless and heavier then air...oh btw its also flammable. made by dupont and used in Europe so well see how it goes in a few more years.
4.6 N/A Monster in progress...
Id like to thank my sponsors for the support and
products to make this possible
And expensive from what I hear....
Reading up on the new stuff is definitely going to make things interesting in a few years. Its not compatible with PAG oils, and the idea of retrofits is being shunned due to putting a flammable gas into a system not designed for it.
Also, looks like they are pushing to restrict r-134a in the future like r-12 requiring the same 609 certification to be able to get it.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; 08-07-2011 at 06:50 PM.
*Michael*
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