Notorious - Dead Battery / Drained Battery in Late Model Mustangs??

[SmokinStang]

Ok......I'm pretty sure that if your a late model Mustang owner you know what I'm talking about!




Here's the deal, and the scenario (I have an 2007 GT500 / S-197):
- Car isn't drive for a short period
- Stored in a climate controlled garage
- No accessories are left on and/or plugged in (examples: GPS, Radar Detector, Cell Phone Charger, Etc.....)
- Car alarm is turned off / no armed
- Key is out of the ignition
- Aftermarket Stereo is installed, to include subwoofer & amp
- LoJack - Theft Recovery Installed
- Factory Battery in-use

Go to take the Stang out for a drive, key in ignition, turn it over......bam......click, click, click, click, click (The dreaded click)......battery is almost totally dead.

NOTE: I generally keep all my cars on a "Battery Tender".....but really now, I shouldn't have to, especially in the summer season. With the battery tender on the no problems though...starts every time.

Have you had any experiences with this problem.....SmokinStangs would like to know???

[SmokinStang]

Another S-197 owner (SmokinStangs Member) with a ROUSH recently told me that this used to happen to him all the time.

This is what he said what he does:
He intentionally - POWERS OFF HIS FACTORY STEREO.....and states that, that has corrected the problem for him. I haven't tested this yet personally...
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Additionally a Terminator owner (also a SmokinStangs Member) has also told me he has this problem continually......and he is a mechanic. He has a factory stereo. He is has explored this topic numerous times, and has yet to come up with an explanation??

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I personally always thought the problem was a result of my aftermarket stereo system....with the amp signaling status potentially all the time??? But hearing that others with factory decks / units are have issues, I have ruled this out.

Also have wondered if trickle voltage draw was coming from LoJack???

[KARMAN]

This is a problem that I have been keeping a eye on for many years.
I have had 3 S197 cars (still have 2).
None of mine have had the problem.
One of the things about the Shaker stereo is that they have some power to them at all times (like most modern units).
The Shakers sometime seem to do things on there own.
It is recommended that you turn off the stereo completely before you turn off the car.
That being said, the power drain has also been attributed to other functions including lojack too.
Pulling fuses and checking current draw is the only way to be sure of what exactly the problem is on your individual car.
It is a tough problem to eliminate.

[SmokinStang]

Well the battery in the 07 GT500 was done. I tried to recover it, but no luck. Jump starts we even becoming a challenge for the original (590 Cold Cranking Amps) Motorcraft battery.

I ended up going to BatteriesPlus http://www.batteriesplus.com/, and purchased a Rayovac Ultra Pro battery.



They installed it on the spot and the GT500 fired up like a champ and as it should. The Rayovac battery didn't have the Hydrometer indicators on it...but it did offer high cranking amps in a slightly smaller footprint.

Figure 23 A typical sealed (maintenance-free) battery with a built-in hydrometer. Note that the hydrometer eye may vary between manufacturers; always refer to the battery's label.


With the 5.4L, I have a feeling that the additional cranking power is going to be well received.

Apparently...It is easy to take for granted how nice it is to turn the key once, and having the car turn right over (nice & strong)!! I can attest...a person completely realizes this, after dealing with a dead battery / no start condition.

BatteriesPlus also tested the ALTERNATOR output on the spot, and all was well.
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BatteriesPlus did mention that battery draw in late model vehicles is much more common these days, as they hear about it all the time. They did re-confirm my thoughts that "Trickle Chargers" are the key!

Note: SmokinStangs / SmokinStangs.com is not endorsing and/or promoting BatteriesPlus, but is sharing a positive experience. I have called upon them for other additional battery needs, and they have always served me well.

[SmokinStang]

Battery maintenance
Difficulty in starting accounts for almost half of the service calls that the American Automobile Association (AAA) makes each year.
A survey by Champion Spark Plug Company indicated that roughly one third of all vehicles experienced one "can't start" condition in a given year.
When a vehicle won't start, most people blame the battery when, in fact, it may be that the battery has run down in a futile attempt to start a vehicle with other problems.
Battery output is affected by ambient temperatures; the battery becomes less efficient at low temperatures, while the power required to start the engine becomes greater. All this means that it pays to keep your battery in good shape, so that power is there when it's needed.

General maintenance
A battery that is not sealed must be checked periodically for electrolyte level. You cannot add water to a sealed maintenance-free battery (though not all maintenance-free batteries are sealed); however, a sealed battery must also be checked for proper electrolyte level, as indicated by the color of the built-in hydrometer "eye."
Always keep the battery cables and terminals free of corrosion. Check these components about every three months, or 3000 miles (4800 km). Refer to the removal, installation and cleaning procedures outlined in this section.
Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt can help completely discharge a battery that is not used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to flush this off with clear water. DO NOT let any of the solution into the filler holes on non-sealed batteries. Baking soda neutralizes battery acid and will de-activate a battery cell.
Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small current drains which are constantly drawing current from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a battery on a vehicle that is in storage and not used for 6-8 weeks. Vehicles that have additional accessories such as a cellular telephone, an alarm system or other devices that increase parasitic load may discharge a battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for 6-8 weeks in a secure area and the alarm system, if present, is not necessary, the negative battery cable should be disconnected at the onset of storage to protect the battery charge.
Remember that constantly discharging and recharging will shorten battery life. Take care not to allow a battery to be needlessly discharged.

Battery fluid
See Figure 19
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a month, or more often in hot weather or during periods of extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed batteries, the level can be checked either through the case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell caps on opaque-case types. The electrolyte level in each cell should be kept filled to the split ring inside each cell, or the line marked on the outside of the case.
If the level is low, add only distilled water through the opening until the level is correct. Each cell is separate from the others, so each must be checked and filled individually. Distilled water should be used, because the chemicals and minerals found in most drinking water are harmful to the battery and could significantly shorten its life.

Figure 19 Add only distilled water to prolong battery life.

If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle should be driven several miles to allow the water to mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could freeze.



Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. If you should splash any on your skin or in your eyes, flush the affected area with plenty of clear water. If it lands in your eyes, get medical help immediately.
Checking the charge on maintenance-free batteries
See Figure 23 and 24
Although some maintenance-free batteries have removable cell caps for access to the electrolyte, the electrolyte condition and level on all sealed maintenance-free batteries must be checked using the built-in hydrometer "eye." The exact type of eye varies between battery manufacturers, but most apply a sticker to the battery itself explaining the possible readings. When in doubt, refer to the battery manufacturer's instructions to interpret battery condition using the built-in hydrometer.
Although the readings from built-in hydrometers found in sealed batteries may vary, a green eye usually indicates a properly charged battery with sufficient fluid level. A dark eye is normally an indicator of a battery with sufficient fluid, but one that may be low in charge. In addition, a light or yellow eye is usually an indication that electrolyte supply has dropped below the necessary level for battery (and hydrometer) operation. In this last case, sealed batteries with an insufficient electrolyte level must usually be discarded.

Figure 23 A typical sealed (maintenance-free) battery with a built-in hydrometer. Note that the hydrometer eye may vary between manufacturers; always refer to the battery's label.


NOTE: With my Dead Battery problem...as mentioned above, my Hydrometer was showing "BLACK," and barely would jump start!!

Figure 24 The colder the weather, the healthier the battery has to be to provide sufficient starting power.



Battery maintenance intervals

Your car's battery will perform efficiently if maintained at these intervals.
1. Check electrolyte level/add water.
Check state of charge. Every month or 1000 miles 2. Check/clean terminals and cables. Every 3 months or 3000 miles 3. Tighten battery hold-downs. As needed

Battery cables don't go bad very often, but like anything else, they can wear out. If the cables on your car are cracked, frayed or broken, they should be replaced.

Info provide by pro car car / procarcare.com & autozone / autozone.com: http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/r..._electric3.asp

[SmokinStang]

Fun, Fun, Fun.....

Just straightened out the battery problem in my 07 GT500....and now my specialty battery is deader than a door knob.

This is a Braille brand battery: http://www.braillebattery.com/ that I am running in the Fox. The goal was much lighted weight all while retaining comparable cranking power. This is the same batteries utilized in F1 Racing....so I figured that they are very well proven.

I religiously kept it on a charger/tender while parked in the garage.
NOTE: Not just any battery tender will work either, as the Braille mated tender must be utilized to work with these based on the different technology & products used in these No-weight batteries.
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Batteries are turning into a really big PITA.
I have/had this small footprint battery installed very slickly...all to have to basically "nuke" it all just to take it out of the engine bay.

I'm hoping that the manufacturer is going to assist big here with remedying the situation....as it is less than a year old, with seasonal use.

[Duff Daddy]

Ok on new cars you have whats called an IOD fuse. This is basically what allows power to all our modules which have KAM (keep alive memory), think radio, pcm, tcm, abcm, cab, ect anything which has stored data, stored faults or any other module on a can bus/lin bus circuit which monitors other computer/modules operations. If you remove this IOD fuse (or now put the car in to "ship mode") your RKE wont work, your radio wont keep time/stations nor will you have any stored monitors, or any stored faults. Most now cars (think 2009 challenger, its what im use to...) they have over 39 modules!!!!!! figure out how much paracitic loss that is in the first 20 minutes prior to these modules going to sleep, as they time out lower and lower and lower amounts of battery draw is left, but there is always some... and eventually, you will have a dead battery.

I hope this clears it up some..

[SmokinStang]

Thank you Duff.....Very good info there!!

Apparently there's alot going in a present day electrical system

[ToplessPony94]

My 94 doesn't have a lot of this stuff, but it seemed to me that the battery drops faster (without a battery tender) since I had my SCT chip installed than it did before. I'm not sure why that should be, as I would not expect there to be any draw there unless the key is turned on. I would not expect it to have KAM, or I would lose the tune if I disconnected the battery. Anyone know?

[SmokinStang]

,

I'm hoping that the manufacturer is going to assist big here with remedying the situation

Braille - Stood behind their product & Warranty. A New Braille B2317....is on it's way.

They cover this battery for a period of 2-years. I thought that I had purchased it around a year ago.....but registration card shows that it was almost a year and ten months.

My month, to a month and a half of procrastination is also in play here.

Will be happy to get this new, replacement battery re-installed and finished. The way I have the compatible Braille battery mount installed....is a PITA to remove/install.
On the up side though.....Once it's all installed & in place, it's a 17lbs Masterpiece!!