Engine Rebuild

[rhoidahl]

My '96 GT has 140,000 on the original motor; currently has basic bolt ons - cold air intake, new upper intake, 75 mm throttlebody and upper plenum. Looking to possibly have it rebuilt over the winter, and I'm trying to finish up the necessary parts list, and would like some feedback on the list below as well as any recommendations:
[*]ModMax Stroker Kit - includes forged stroker crankshaft, forged connecting rods, forged dish stroker pistons, piston pins, plasma moly piston rings, high performance rod bearings and high performance main bearings.[*]Power Improvement cylinder heads[*]Comp Cams x-treme energy XE265H camshafts[*]Comp Cams high load valve springs[*]Intake gaskets[*]Head gaskets
Total cost for parts at this point = $4300.

Also thinking of:[*]Professional Products Typhoon Intake[*]6-8 psi Vortech Spercharger
Brings cost for parts now to just under $9000.

Debating if a new crate motor might be a better option. Any feedback???? THANKS.

[Bill (ACM)]

How much of the work can you do yourself? If you are paying someone to do it, you're looking at $15+k to put into a 96GT. That's a lot of coin to drop under the hood of a 96GT, unless you are just in love with the car. I know the blower is sexy, but you might cosider putting it down a little on your list and doing some chassis prep. The 96 chassis is really twisty, and a set of braces is money well spent to help you get a lot more of that expensive HP to the ground. The stroker kit is a nice way to go if you are going to do the stroker. Don't forget that you'll have to upgrade your fuel system to deal with the extra demand...before you do the blower. You'll need a good exhaust, performance motor and tranny mounts, etc. All the little things add up fast. If it is a 5speed car, you won't get to run that 350 na/450 blown hp through the stock clutch for very long. gears, springs, extra cooling capacity, etc. I'm not trying to discourage you. I just hate to see you drop the money in in the wrong order and not get the bang for your buck you get when it goes together in the right order.

[badass98svt]

Have you considered dropping in a pi 4.6? with low miles?
that would be a super cheap alternative for you Randy.

[ToplessPony94]

I haven't seen anyone mention the diff so far. If you want to use that HP you need something good back there. If you're mainly cruising with it, the Torsens are very good choices. I'll let someone else recommend a serious drag dif since I don't know much about that. Suspension upgrades also help in getting the HP to the asphalt.

[Bill (ACM)]

Have you considered dropping in a pi 4.6? with low miles?
that would be a super cheap alternative for you Randy.

great point. Since you have to pull the motor anyway, you might consider just buying PI engine, buy a Teksid block and do an aluminum block/PI top end upgrade. you could sell the newer block and the longblock that is in it to finance it, and have a pretty serious engine for cheap money, assuming you can do most of the labor yourself.

[badass98svt]

If you are interested in a teksid block, i have one available possibly...

[nicoleb3x3]

rebuild it yourself so you can blow max dough on parts :)

that's what I did!
http://www.gotstang.com/profile.php?Nicoleb3x3&page=2

I've seen a tear-down of a crate motor that had mis-matched parts inside....that's all I had to see to realize that I'd be better off screwing it up myself than be mad I got ripped off

[Duff Daddy]

I haven't seen anyone mention the diff so far. If you want to use that HP you need something good back there. If you're mainly cruising with it, the Torsens are very good choices. I'll let someone else recommend a serious drag dif since I don't know much about that. Suspension upgrades also help in getting the HP to the asphalt.

8.8 rear ends are fine, nd wont be close to breaking anything he has. Only time you snap 8.8 28spline rear axles are if you have a higher grip clutch and then makes the axles the weak point. other then then that you dont need to repalce them. If you wnat go to moser get hardened 28 spline axles and they wont break on the HP level you will have. I ran 300 wheel 6k cluch dumps, cut 1.6 short times and never broke an axles with 130k on my car for the past 3 seasons.....

great point. Since you have to pull the motor anyway, you might consider just buying PI engine, buy a Teksid block and do an aluminum block/PI top end upgrade. you could sell the newer block and the longblock that is in it to finance it, and have a pretty serious engine for cheap money, assuming you can do most of the labor yourself.

Not that easy, have you ever put 2v heads on a 4v block???

If you are interested in a teksid block, i have one available possibly...

He will still have alot of work to do from your block, thats where I started and besides the race car aspect of my build, the teksid 2v head combo itsnt as easy as you would think.


Not trying to be a **** but we dont know this guys abilities, we dont know his budget, hes posted once and he seems to shop off search engines. Mod Max isnt bad but its not reat, people who want to tell people what they have use them but peope who know hat they have and understand what they baught, dont use ModMax.


Hell he may have the money, to just give someone, say I wnat to run an SI trim, i want 450 wheel hp, i dont care how you do it but do it and make it last.

[rhoidahl]

OK, Thanks for the input guys. Most of it was really helpful. Not sure what I'll do at this point, but leaning toward the crate motor option. New motor, complete and easier to swap than to pull and rebuild.

[only90s]

How about doing something really cool and dropping in a brand new Coyote 5.0 4V crate engine in that baby... They are only $6500.


http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...m-6007-m50.htm